The Great Outdoors was the foundation for this Fashion Week, as labels looked to outdoor pursuits and explored a hi-tech utility wardrobe. Designers took the road less traveled with windcheaters, backpacks, walking sandals and hats with the Made in Italy label adding sheen and elevated camping, hiking and varappe equipment to objects of desire. Prada built a whole collection around the theme, with significant use of nylon harking back to the styles that made the house's name back in the 1990s.
Left to right: Prada, Nasir Mazhar, Moncler Gamme bleu
Fashion loves to regularly revisit the minimalist Nineties look, with the MTV generation now heading up many of the independent labels. Inner-city outerwear couture was an East London design signature for Astrid Andersen and Nasir Mazhar, given a post-Soviet twist at Gosha Rubchinskiy.
Left to right: MSGM, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Astrid Andersen
A fashion earthquake hit Paris Wednesday June 22, when Demna Gvasalia showed his first Balenciaga menswear collection, starting a one-man bid for super-sized shoulders. Bombers, classic overcoats and suit jackets were all cut with extremely wide shoulders for hybrid appeal.
If the news that the Vetements collection was based entirely around collaborations with 18 other brands came as a shock, it shouldn't have. Fashion has always been about alliances and collaborations, led by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus this season, with a transplant version of the Nike Dunk sneaker, Off-White with Umbro and Gosha Rubchinskiy cozying up to Italian sportswear titans Fila, Sergio Tacchini and Kappa for collaborative pieces that we expect to go cult.
Left to right: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Off-White
It could be the influence of the Nuboyoshi Araki exhibit on in Paris at the moment, or just a rebel move to turn up the temperature for next summer. Either way, one thing is for sure: designers must have scoured the sex shops of Pigalle for inspiration for the harnesses and restraints that appeared on the runway this Fashion Week, raising the sexual tension at Dior Homme and KTZ and accenting with dog collars at Louis Vuitton.
Left to right: KTZ, Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton
It-accessory at Balenciaga, Acne Studios and A.P.C., the cap topped all looks as designers played with color and texture; from red to nude via denim and everything in between.
Left to right: A.P.C., Balenciaga, Acne Studios
When fashion and nature collide, to goes right down to the details. Seen from London to Paris via Milan, designers reworked climbing rope as a fashion piece swinging from tailored suits and jackets at Dior Homme or accessorising karibiners at Lanvin and MSGM.
Left to right: Dior Homme, Lanvin, MSGM
Sportswear gains ground each season and for Summer 2017 the backpack is star of the style show. High luxe at Vuitton or a practical at Prada, backpackers can leave for the airport safe in the knowledge that their style game will on point wherever they end up.
Left to right: Louis Vuitton, Prada, Givenchy
Super short shorts
Not seen since the 1970s, could the ultra short be about to make a comeback for next summer? The jury is out, but while we’re waiting on a fashion consensus, it’s worth noting that we saw pyjama-style versions at Fendi and Comme des Garçons Plus and super short retro sportwear at Gosha Rubchinskiy.
Left to right: Gosha Rubchinskiy, Fendi, Comme des Garçons Plus
With a rather damp summer so far in Paris, we welcomed rainwear on the runway. A SS17 essential, sheer at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, monogrammed at Louis Vuitton and classic yellow at Gucci.
Left to right: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Dries van Noten
It’s the color surprise of the season. Yellow accents or even bolder color-blocking lit up the summer catwalks at Hermès, Gucci and Alexander McQueen.
Left to right: Gucci, Hermes, Alexander McQueen
Black and white checks have come into play, giving the look a shot of cool through optical illusions and print combinations. Seen on the runway for both day and night at Givenchy and Tokyo label Facetasm, as well as distorted at MSGM.
Left to right: Facetasm, Givenchy, MSGM
The bucket hat
We thought we'd seen the last of these Nineties accessories, but according to the Spring/Summer 2017 catwalks, bucket hats are set to make a strong comeback next season. In keeping with the current fisherman trend, designers sent models out onto the catwalk this Menswear Week sporting a series of stylish variations, from waxed rain hats at Gucci to Christopher Shannon's more conceptual take and Givenchy's plexiglas version.
Left to right: Prada, Nasir Mazhar, Gucci, Givenchy
Jackets round the waist
A subtle styling detail spotted at Ami and Sacai or with a fresh conceptual twist at J.W. Anderson, the jacket tied around the waist was a surefire sign that cool nonchalance is making a comeback this season. Think Kurt Cobain's signature shirt checkered shirt slung low around his waist.
Left to right: Sacai, J.W. Anderson, Ami
From fierce fighter pilot to laid-back mechanical chic, designers are showing no signs of expelling the utilitarian all-in-one from their menswear wardrobes any time soon. A bold fashion statement that steals the style of workmen in their warehouses, we predict a strong Spring/Summer 2017 trend for jumpsuits and boilersuits.
Left to right: Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Junya Watanabe
Clothing has long been a means of communication, an idea which designers took literally this season. In a society where economic crisis is a harsh reality, the printed message turned clothing into political statements. At Comme des Garçons Plus: ‘The King is Naked’, MSGM asked probing questions (‘What do you feel?’), Gucci proclaimed the ‘future’ and Off-White held up a ‘Mirror’ to the spectators.
Left to right: Gucci, MSGM, Christopher Shannon, Off-White
Neutral linen tones and sandy shades were a dominant element of the tailored looks at Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen and the casual military-inspired pieces at Valentino. A quintessential look for summer.
Left to right: Dries van Noten, Valentino, Alexander Mcqueen
With embroidered anchors, marinières and water-repellant materials, a salty breeze made its way onto the runway, led by Alessandro Michele’s aquatic collection for Gucci.
Left to right: Topman, Gucci, Off-White
Camouflage is fighting its way to the top of the style stakes next summer as urban adventurers toughen up their look. Spotted at Givenchy, Valentino and Dries Van Noten.
Left to right: Dries van Noten, Givenchy, Valentino
As for mid-season jackets at Prada, Versace and Juun. J, the windbreaker and the parka came in all chromatic shapes and sizes: light parachute-style at Juun. J, printed and tied around the waist at Prada, and hooded at Versace.
Left to right: Juun.J, Prada, Versace